Word: Ayu Arman
The Golden City of Amungsa Land
Tembagapura is known as the city of gold because of its long history as the largest mining centre in Indonesia. The city of gold is traditionally located in the Amungsa Nation, the native land of the Amungme people. The Amungsa, along with the Damal (Puncak), Moni (Intan Jaya), and Mee (Paniai, Dogiyai, Deiyai) tribes are included in the Papuan customary territory called Mee Pago.
The Amungme people can be considered one culture with the Damal people. However, the Tembagapura natives tend to call themselves Amungme, while the Damal usually come from outside Mimika. Both are speakers of the same language, which the Amungme call Amungkal and the Damalme call Damalkal.
Tembagapura is in the Mulkini Valley, on the slopes of Mount Zaagkam at an altitude of about 2,000 metres above sea level, not far from Cartensz Peak, the highest peak in Oceania. The valley was originally a battlefield and farming ground for the Amungme people of Waa. The Natkime clan became the original inhabitants of the valley, now led by Tuarek Natkime, the great chief who first welcomed Freeport to Mulkini.
The valley has been transformed into a modern city above the clouds as a consequence of copper, gold and silver mining in the Mimika Highlands. The presence of Freeport McMoRan Copper & Gold Incorporate, a US company, in Mimika, Papua began with an expedition of three Dutch men in 1936.
They were A. H. Colijn, F. J. Wissel, and geologist Jean-Jacques Dozy. The three became the first outsiders to see a very high mountain range, reaching a height of about 4,830 metres with many peaks covered in snow. There was a sense of awe that came over the expedition members when they saw the snowy mountain scenery so close to the equator. In the vast black rock layer near the icy peaks stick out irregular spots of green copper minerals.
As a Dutch geologist, Jean-Jacques Dozy recognised the black rock as none other than the copper-containing mineral chalcopyrite. He then named the rock mountain Ertsberg, which in Dutch means ore mountain. He recorded his discovery in an expedition journal. The journal remained in the Leiden library collection for a long time. Until Forbes Wilson, Freeport’s Sulphur Exploration manager, came across Dozy’s report.
It was from Jean-Jacques Dozy’s travel notes that Freeport discovered the ‘treasure map’ of Papua, so Wilson undertook an expedition to Papua after receiving support from Freeport. In 1960, Wilson and a team of 60 travelled to Papua with more complete and sophisticated equipment.
In the climb, Wilson and his team faced the fierce nature of Papua. The mountain top winds were so strong and cold that they had to nail tents and sleeping bags to keep them from being swept away by the storm. Finally, Wilson proved Dozy’s account correct. He saw an ore mountain that was 179 metres above sea level and estimated that the copper content reached a depth of up to 360 metres. They took and brought samples of the copper ore.
With Wilson’s recommendation, Freeport McMoRan Copper & Gold Incorporate entered Indonesia and signed its first contract during the Soeharto administration in 1967. After obtaining permission to open a mine in Mimika, the company established PT Freeport Indonesia and began building an airfield named Timika. The name was taken from the word ‘timuka’ or ‘timiko’ which means crocodile. The word refers to the south eastern coastal area inhabited by the Kamoro tribe, which is inhabited by crocodiles. Timika was later used to refer to the area around the airfield and is now the capital of Mimika Regency.
PT Freeport Indonesia also built several roads in Timika City, amidst forests, canyons and mountains to support its operations. Along with Freeport’s development, Mimika, from an area that was originally inhabited by only a small number of indigenous people, has now become a magnet for migrants.
Mimika was also later expanded into a regency. Today, the area continues to grow into a modern city, particularly in Timika City and Tembagapura, with stunning natural resources. In Tembagapura, located at the foot of Mount Zaagkam, a settlement for Freeport workers was built in 1973. Tembagapura has an area of 12,280 km2. It is located about 55 km from the centre of Mimika City. In this remote jungle town, you’ll find an atmospheric, US-style city.
A full range of international standard living facilities are found here. These range from a hospital run by International SOS, supermarkets, salons, banking services, bars, cafes, hobby shops, libraries, heated swimming pools, football pitches, tennis courts, squash courts, sports halls, state of the art gymnasiums, apartments, houses, barracks, and international schools.
The township is surrounded by majestic mountains, virgin forests, cool air, and clear, pure waterfalls. The natural beauty of the township is reflected in its name. The name Tembagapura is taken from two words, ‘copper’ and ‘temple’, which describe both wealth and beauty. Here, you can see the small bridges on the corners and the white mist that adorns the city sky.
You can also hear the rustling leaves of the forest. However, don’t expect to stare at the blue clouds all day as the clear skies can suddenly turn grey, and then the sky sends up a drizzle. The initially warm air quickly becomes bone- chillingly cold with temperatures ranging from 5 to 20 degrees centigrade.
On a clear morning or afternoon, the sun freely shines on the city that lies above the clouds. At that time, the panoramic view of nature is breathtaking. The rows of workers’ houses and offices with bright red-brick or yellow roofs and the passing city buses are clearly captured by our eyepiece.
By noon, all of these sights can disappear in an instant. The sky is suddenly white, then slowly darkens. The green forest is covered in fog. Similarly, the city area becomes faintly visible. Then, water from the sky pours down on everything below. The serene atmosphere evaporated. This is what happens in the city nicknamed the Land in the Clouds throughout the year.
The city can be reached in about 20 minutes by helicopter or by special bulletproof bus from Mozes Kilangin Airport, Timika for 2-3 hours. However, not everyone can freely visit the area, unless you get permission from PT Freeport Indonesia.